2/22/2010 ? Tai Chi and Dim Sum

This morning I woke up early and well rested. I am ready to start the day with Tai Chi. I went out to meet Erin and the group of students participating in a Tai Chi lesson followed by a visit to a teashop and then dim sum for lunch. First we went to a park in Hong Kong.

When we exited the bus it was raining a bit. We passed a fountain and climbed some steps to a protected patio that looks out on a beautiful garden. At the overhang a Tai Chi master and his associate were there to greet us. They showed us movements, which we then repeated. Then we put it all together into a single meditative motion. It was an easy, relaxing, and centering morning. After the lesson our teachers were kind enough to pose for a picture with the majority of the students.

Afterward we went to a teashop where I learned more about Chinese tea traditions and recognized conflicting views. At this teahouse our host was giving her first tea lesson. She did very well. Some things were different though. She claimed that tea did not need to be “cleansed” or brewed once before the actual brewing. Her teacher had said, “If it is not clean tea, don’t drink it.” This did not make sense to me because the first brewing or cleansing not only cleans dirt or dust off the tea, but also ‘wakes’ the tea up so the flavor is more pronounced in the second brewing. I asked our guide about this who agreed it is more traditional to brew the tea twice. Regardless of the different perspectives on tea, it was all delicious. Erin, who was on the tour with me, does not like tea so much so I drank about double the offered tea that day.

Between the teashop and our lunch we stopped at the wet market where fresh fish, meat, sea creatures, fruit, and vegetables are sold. The ground had blood and water running from some of the meat vendor carts. The smell of fish, baked goods, dried spices, and anything else you can think of wafted through the crowd, but was not overwhelming. Fresh seafood was incredibly fresh because the venders have buckets of salt water where the fish, and crustaceans were alive and biding there time until someone says they want a few for dinner. Meat venders had ribs, chickens, ducks, and sausages hanging from their stalls. Then you could walk through rows of fresh fruits and vegetables, a feast before your eyes. It was an amazing experience. The stimulation of the market and the idea that it could be possible to have an apartment that overlooks the lights and beauty of the city created a romanticized Hong Kong that I will always hold dear.

Our lunch was fabulous. It was all dim sum. We had pork bao, taro pastries, crab puffs, duck and other tasty delights. The neat thing was that the specific restaurant that we went  to shaped their dim sum into little animals. The taro pastry looked like a crab, we had spun sugar in the form of a bunny. Another pastry looked like a hedgehog and the one that had duck in it looked like a tiny little duck. The food was delicious and adorable. I promise pictures will be posted as soon as I get some free Internet.

2/21/2010 ? Hong Kong

I entered Hong Kong on a bus from the airport in the evening. We took a bridge and traveled over the dark water to the island where the ship was docked. As we crossed the bridge I could look out and see all the lights from city and a few buildings were especially lit up with banners celebrating the New Year. Our bus pulled into a side alley next to a shopping mall and we were shown an entrance to the mall. Up a flight of stairs and around the corner in the mall we followed little tiles in the floor that pointed the way to the ship. Eventually we exited onto an exterior balcony and boarded the ship through a gangway that was connected to this large mall. It was late once we actually got on the ship so I had a little bit of dinner, unpacked and went to bed.

2/21/2010 ? Bike Ride in Yangshuo

I awoke reluctantly in the morning for an early shower and breakfast. One thing that was special this morning was that the hotel was expecting to have no electricity from 8am-1pm. This meant that no warm water, or light in the bathroom would be available after eight. I waited until 7:45 to knock on the bathroom door and remind my roommate that I too would like a shower. After my quick shower and scramble downstairs with all my stuff (also our check out day) I got some breakfast. Now the time was about 8:15am and there was still electricity. However, during breakfast the power did shut off. There were windows so it wasn’t bad. I finished and went out to meet the rest of the group.

Today we were going to rent bicycles and pedal around Yangshuo. As we went out into the street to get the bicycles we met some other SAS students on bicycles who had traveled independently to the area. After chatting a bit we went and got our own bikes. I chose a nice single speed cruiser, which was perfect for the flat valley.

We braved the city traffic and went onto a nice little country road. First we stopped at a field of gape seeds that was in bloom. Tall stalks of yellow flowers filled the field and met the tall green rock mountains that shoot up from the ground. Nearby was a bee farm and honeybees were everywhere in the field.

Next we went to a farmer’s house and saw their one room building with cloth hanging in the open window. They had one main piece of furniture, their TV. Behind the house was a small river. It was very wide and had little current. Many people were out on their bamboo rafts to fish, relax, or socialize.

After the little house we went to a small village where we could get some water. We saw a man with two monkeys chained to his belt. It was a sorry sight to see an animal so similar to humans be chained and dressed in funny clothes. The man who was their master had a small stick, which he used to hit their butts when they did not stand or do as they were told. When the stick was brought out, the monkey’s facial expressions changed to fear, and dislike.

Up the road a vender was selling kumquats. I had one for the first time and it was delicious.

Then we were on our bikes again. This time we went to a park and saw a banyan tree that was 1400 years old. It was all decorated for the New Year too. This large tree was magnificent and held a high value to many in the area, for religious reasons and basic pride. 

After the banyan tree we returned to the city. Riding the bikes was perfect though. You could see everything and feel the interaction between yourself and the area. I could feel the wind in my hair and smell each different thing we passed. It was an amazing and wonderful experience; the perfect thing to end our stay in Yangshuo. When we returned the bikes we got on the bus and left for the airport to fly into Hong Kong where the MV Explorer was waiting for us.

2/20/2010 ? A Wonderful Evening

After seeing the cave we went back to the Hotel for dinner. I had a little time and checked my e-mail on the hotel’s computer. I received an e-mail from an advisor at Portland State University saying that the psychology course I am taking on the ship has been approved to transfer toward my major as a 400 – level course! This means that I should not have to take any other classes at PSU to graduate. After Semester at Sea I am done with my undergraduate career! This was, and still is, amazing news. In a wonderful mood I had dinner and went to a show performed on the water with natural scenery as the backdrop.

“Impression Liu Sanjie” was an amazing performance of folk dance and music directed by the same man who directed the opening Olympics ceremony in Beijing. Lights were the big effect with torches, spotlights and backlight of various colors. At one point the whole scene is red, and at another point it is all blue and calm. Large floating rafts with lit scenery floated on the water. At one time everything was black except for the lights on the peoples costumes. All I could see were these lights in the shape of people apparently dancing across the water. It was beautiful. The whole show was absolutely amazing and employees a large percentage of the people in Yangshuo.

After the show we went to West Street, where our hotel is. West Street is also where all the vendors of arts, crafts, clothing, and souvenirs are. I shopped for a bit and got my bargaining skills a little more fine tuned, even though I think it is not my best skill. After a little bit of shopping I met up with more friends from the trip and we all went out to the bars.

Today was a celebration of my being able to graduate so I got a few drinks for free. First we went to a bar that was a little overpriced, and not much fun, but it was called the Casablanca. Then we continued and found a little place that was selling very cheap beer, had good music, a pool table, table soccer, and a TV showing soccer games from Europe. I had a great time at this bar. I played a game of pool, which lasted forever because we were all terrible and the table was not flat. During the game I was dancing, lip sinking to the music, and just having fun because I was so happy! Plus the music was pretty fun too.

When the small bar was getting ready to close we moved on to the only place that was still open. A tiny techno club with a small stage and a stripper pole was the only place left. We went in and ordered a round of drinks. Then I was able to get about four of us up and dancing. While we were dancing I heard some English, and low and behold there was a group of people from Pittsburg, with a friend from Canada, partying with us in Yangshuo, China!  I had an awesome time, but it started being too late and tomorrow was another day. So I went back to the hotel with a friend.

We walked down West Street and it had been transformed. Before it had been a place of busy commerce where venders and wares lined the street as tourists and townies alike perused the merchandise. As we walked now it was dark and dead. Everything had been moved inside and locked. Only a few guys, hoping to get a taxi job, could be seen in the empty street as we walked to the Hotel. It was quite the transformation.

2/20/2010 ? River Ride

Today we went on a boat and traveled up the Lijiang River. Along the river I saw men on bamboo rafts selling items. A few of them would hook their little raft to our boat and try to sell wares through the windows. On the banks of the river were some herds of water buffalo and goats. In the background were beautiful limestone rock mountains. We even went through the spot that is printed on the 20 yuan note. At the end of the boat tour we arrived in Yangshuo a town that was only opened to foreigners in 1970. Now the main street we walked through to get from the river to our hotel (west street) was packed with venders and buyers. All sorts of arts, crafts, clothes, and souvenirs were being sold.

Once we were at the new hotel (our stuff had been dropped off by a bus) we went out to see one of the famous caves that this area of China is known for. The Cave we went to was enormous. Different rock formations were named and lit with colored light. Some were a cool blue and others were pink, green, and purple. As we went through the cave different shapes were brought to our attention. There were lions, dragons, monks and mothers seen in the rock formations.  

2/19/2010 ? My Karaoke Moment

After the village we were all tired, but we did not want to waste the time we had in Guilin. We walked around the lakes and saw the colored lights on rocks and trees reflecting on the water. At one point we arrived to the Two Pagodas that are in one of the lakes.

The two pagodas are called the sun and moon pagodas because one is built and painted with silver and the other with gold. They are actually connected by an underwater bridge in the lake that is open to the public during the day. Unfortunately, it was night time so we just got some pretty pictures.

After seeing the lakes and the pagodas, about five of us went to have ice cream at a little bar right next to our hotel. Inside the bar we discovered that they had Karaoke. I watched as a group of Chinese guys perform to the music and after a little bit our server asked if we wanted to sing. She indicated that they did have some English songs. We were all pretty excited to sing so we went to see what songs they had. I chose My Heart Will Go On from the Titanic, and there was also a backstreet boys song, the yellow submarine, my girl, and YMCA. Titanic was awesome and really fun. I rocked it! But the other songs were almost unrecognizable because they had all been remixed. We had fun anyways, belting out the chorus lines, which were pretty much the same.

It was a great night to just let loose and have some fun. The screen that had the lyrics also had some of the funniest music videos to these songs I have ever seen. I had fun and was close enough to the Hotel that got a good night sleep too.

2/19/2010 ? Mountain Village

I woke up early and hopped on the bus for a three-hour drive into the mountains. Today we went to a mountain village up in the bamboo and where rice patties are tiered into the hills. We arrived at a base area. Here we had a little time to skip stones in a creek and to look at some roosters who were having a wonderful conversation of cock-a-doodle-doos. When we first got off the bus women with long black hair (down to the ground) wound up into a turban on their head came up to us to sell necklaces, bracelets, and earrings. These women were from a village four hours away, only accessible by foot. They walked there and back every day with all of their wares.

After hanging out at the creek two small vans, that can take the switchback turns of the small mountain road, drove us to the bottom of a path that winds up to the mountain village. We began walking up after the more elderly of our group paid guys to carry them in lounge chairs up the path to the restaurant. The chairs had a canopy to protect the rider from the shade. Then in the front and back there was a type of harness for a man on each end to lift the chair with their shoulders as they walked. It was a sight to see this procession of chairs and men walking up the narrow path.

On each side of the path were booths selling items that had been hand made by the sellers. There were pillowcases, table runners, hundreds of little statues and figurines, dresses, pants, jewelry, and different dried animals such as lizards, and snakes.

As I went through the village toward the peak I saw a woman tending to a field of vegetables. I saw some small children running down the steps of the village. As I walked up the steps and passed a Chinese man, he took out his camera and took a picture. Just as I was curious and in awe of this new and different people and way of life, he was also curious about me.

I went to the top of the peak and looked out over beautiful fields of tiered rice patties into the hills. The sun was golden on the green and brown terraces. In a few months they would all shine with water. It was a majestic place where everything felt so calm and simple. I loved the serenity and beauty that I felt from the people and the land. I loved how everyone in that village knows where there food comes from and appreciates the work and efforts of each person in that community. It felt wonderful to stand on the peak, see the beauty, feel the breeze, and feel connected to everything.

Then we had lunch in a restaurant in the village. We all sat out on a deck to continue and enjoy the beauty of where we were. The food was the best I had had in China. There was a wonderful duck dish, and another chicken dish that was incredible. I also had some bamboo rice. This is where a bamboo chamber is filled with rice and some vegetable and roasted over a fire to cook. Then the bamboo is sliced open and some amazing sticky rice is inside for the taking. Delicious!       

On the way down I bought some pillowcases and a skirt. When I got the skirt, a little boy of about three years old decided he was a bull, and I was the flag. He ran into me two or three times while negotiated with his mom. She reprimanded him each time. When I gave her the money, she handed him the change and told the little boy to give me the change. I thanked him in Chinese and went on my way. I was very impressed that even at the age of three children are learning the trade of their parents.

I also bought a purse on this trip, which has turned out to be losing its stitching at a rapid pace ☹.

Back on the large bus we went on our way back to Guilin until some logs, being kept for construction, rolled off their stack and blocked the road. Being young and able people we were all willing to get out and help move the logs to clear the road. The people of the village we were in didn’t want any help though. In all the commotion, one of the pigs in a stall by the road jumped out and was roaming around trying to find anything to eat. So, as we stood by, a number of men got together and lifted the large logs out of the way, while a pig wandered the street as he followed his nose. It was a wonderful demonstration of hard work, teamwork, problem solving, and community. We were back on the bus as the men moved the last log and we said goodbye to beautiful mountain village.

3/20/2010 ? Singing, ?I kissed a fish, and I ??

Neptune Day!!! Today I woke up at 5:30am to watch the sun rise. I had a wonderful breakfast and went back to my room just in time to see the crew walking down our hall with togas, legionnaire helmets, and shields as they banged on drums, pots and pans and blew a whistle. The last crewmember knocked on each door they passed. Neptune Day has begun!

Out on the pool deck we had a wonderful ceremony where we pollywogs pleaded with the king of the sea to be fishes of the sea. After declaring ourselves worthy of this honor and reciting a pledge we then had to have “fish guts” poured on us, a swim through the pool, then a ceremonial kissing of a large fish and the royal sea rings. I am a pollywog no longer!

Afterward, many people decided to shave their head and contribute to locks of love. I have to say, if I was not graduating in a few months, I may have seriously considered it.

We get a barbeque tonight and time to study for an upcoming exam! Yeah! Happy Neptune Day!

2/18/2010 ? On the Town in Guilin

After dinner all the kids in the group (about 8) went out to explore the city. We went past the lakes where trees were lit up with lights and colored lights shone on rocks and bridges. Then we found a walking street where shops and carts were lined up ready to sell anything and everything.

Most people wanted to find a bar so we asked around and found a club called the Max club. It was still a little early in the night so no one was there. We also found out that this club only served beer, nothing else. The interesting thing about the Max was that it was called a club, had really loud music and laser lights, but no dance floor. The large open floor in the middle of the club was filled with tables and chairs. It was strange to see.

We all walked around more, joking and wandering the streets. It got later in the evening and we decided to try another club. It turns out we entered the Max again from a different door. Now there were more people and better music. One of the guys in our group opened the door to a private room and saw that people in there were dancing so we all kind of crashed the party. I was instantly handed an opened beer, which I passed off to the next person. We were welcomed to the party with smiles and hand shakes. A few guys were happy to dance with me as I was soon twirling around. Then the music slowed and everyone put their arms around their neighbors and swayed to the music. This little cumbaiya moment lasted for a while. It was strange and a little creepy. I broke away and began to look for some girls who I hadn’t seen recently. I found them in the main club area where we all decided it was time to move on. We went back in and grabbed the rest of the group and left Max.

We then went to a little German pub with live music. Everybody pitched in and got a little keg that gave maybe two glasses of light beer to everyone. I myself don’t like light beers that much so I got “dark beer” and it was actually pretty tasty. We hung out and talked while listening to music. There was a guy with a guitar playing songs and as time went by we realized he had started playing English songs from artists like Cold Play and John Mayer. Two of our group even got up and danced for bit. We had a fun time as the night went on and then went to the hotel to rest up for new adventures.

3/19/2010 ? Crossing the Equator

At about 2:30am today the MV Explorer crossed the equator. Today was the most beautiful day at sea I have seen. When I woke up the sky was pure blue with a few white fluffy clouds. The ocean was like glass. It was calm and crystal clear. Rolling off the ship the water looked thick or heavy because it barely broke the surface tension. Looking out, the sun would catch on the water and hues of purple and red could be seen all day. My surroundings were unreal. It felt like I was in some dreamland or a computer graphic of an ocean scene.

After dinner today I went with Erin to the bow of the ship and stood against the wonderful breeze watching the sun set. The crescent moon came into view and stars began to appear as the clouds went from linings of yellow and orange to pinks and purples. The water changed from a clear blue reflection of the sky to a deep blue that continues for eternity. Today was one of supreme beauty. 

2/18/2010 ? Tea Research Center

After the luge I got back on the bus and we went to a tea factory/research center. At the gate they had the farming hats for us to put on for a photo-op out in the field of tea bushes. We all went out and took pictures. Then the Tea Master came out and told us how they pick the tealeaves and use different stages of the leaves for different teas. The white tea is the most expensive and comes from the smallest little leaf. When a leaf is broad and green they use it for fertilizer. The stages in between are for other types of green tea.

After hearing bout the tea bushes, and how they pick the tealeaves, we were then escorted to tearoom in a building nearby. The Tea Master told us about the Chinese tea ceremony and explained how different pots are used for different types of teas. Then he began the ceremony and washed everything with hot water, warming the pots and cups. The first tea he showed us was yellow and light. He brewed this in a glass teapot. First he poured hot water in and as soon as it was done filtering through the tea, he poured it out. This is to clean the tea and to wake it up and bring out the flavor. Then he poured the water over the tea again, into the pot. When the water had gone through the second time it was a much richer color. We all tasted the tea. It was scrumptious and fresh.

The Tea Master went through and explained how to use clay pots, glass, pots, and ceramic pots. He told us how long each tea should be brewed for. For example, one of the teas he showed us was brewed in a clay pot. The tea was done brewing when, after pouring hot water over the outside of the pot, the pot is dry from soaking in the external water. The ceremony was beautiful, carefree, and social. The thought of performing it as a sign of respect and socialization is wonderful and I hope to learn much more about the practice.

It was amazing the amount of knowledge and information the Tea Master new about tea. He had been studying and researching tea for seven years. He would pour the water from a height to oxidize the tea more. Before putting on the lid he would scrape off the foam. The water to brew the tea was not to be at a boiling temperature, only hot. We were also shown the proper way for men and women to drink the tea. This is what I remember, but there was so much more information. The whole experience was wonderful. 

2/18/2010 ? Guilin

I arrived in Guilin in the afternoon from an early plane ride. The air outside felt cleaner, and, although it was still a little chilly, it was a lot warmer than Shanghai. Our tour guide, Alex, took us by bus to a restaurant in the suburbs of Guilin, a “small” city of a few five million people or so. As we exited the bus I noticed a women sitting down on a rock by the road. She had simple clothes on and a long stick that may have been a crutch. Then I went in to eat.

In the restaurant we were all seated in one room at circular tables. Each table had a lazy Susanne on it and we all ate with chopsticks. The lazy Susanne was very helpful. As each dish was served we would just pass it around the table by rotating the tray. The food was tasty but did not meet with my expectations of the wonderful authentic Chinese cuisine I had heard of. We had new food like caramelized taro root and a soup that resembles American hot and sour, but tastes more like watered down tomato soup.

After lunch we went back on to the bus and the woman I had seen earlier was standing, using the long stick as a crutch because she had no right leg. She asked us for money in a different manner than I had seen before. Rather than ask for money with an open outstretched hand, she had money in her hand and pointing it toward us would say, “Dollar? Dollar?” I thought this was very interesting because, although it was apparent that she was asking for money, it almost felt like she was trying to give us the money she held in her hand.  

We boarded the bus and continued our drive into Guilin city center. On the way in we passed a tiger and bear research center, where 1300 tigers lived and were studied in an effort to support the dwindling tiger population in China.

We drove into Guilin and saw the multiple small lakes that are part of the city’s beauty. On the horizon were large karst formations of limestone rocks sticking out of the ground. In the city seven on these formations had been sectioned off into a park where many people hike the rocks and do tai chi in the pagodas on the top.

Then we arrived at our hotel, the Guilin Bravo Hotel, and went to our rooms for a half hour before beginning a tour. At the hotel we had little key cards that not only opened the door, but also were required in a little slot to turn on the electricity for the room. My room was nice and large with a good bathroom. The beds even had a thick comforter, which is desperately missing from the ships accommodations.   

Meeting in the lobby of the hotel I joined the group on a tour to go to the tallest peak in the area with a cable car ride and then to a tea plantation. At the base of the tallest peak we got out of the bus to be bombarded with sales people. They would hold up bags and bracelets, or large green coats to us and would bargain with our silence. These people followed us all the way to the entrance line for the cable car. A few of our group were even shrugging out of the coats that had been placed on them as they were walking.

As I moved through the line to the cable car, I realized along with everyone else that it wasn’t what we all though of as cable cars. We looked up at the steep slope to see ski lift chairs rotating around.

Now there was a reason the sale people were selling coats. It was winter, it was cold, it was overcast and we were going up a mountain. Now all of us saw that our transportation was a ski chair. This wasn’t a shock, or a horrible circumstance, by any means. It was more humorous to me, to realize the difference between my expectations and the reality.

Up I went on a ski chair. As we went up there were a few people who passed us, going down. As they went by, almost each person who passed us would say “Hello” and wave with big smiles. They seemed so excited to speak one or two words of English to foreigners.  Music was playing from speakers on the lift and about half way up it began to rain in a fine mist.

At the top of the peak it was freezing. Everyone looked around for a second, took their pictures, and asked a little about why the rocks formed in such random pointed-ness in flat lands. The answer to this was never clearly stated but it had something to do with the land being underwater, and when the sea retreated the limestone rocks were left sticking up. Very quickly we all wanted to go back down. More specifically we wanted to go half way down, and take a luge the rest of the way.

At the half-way we got to the luge, it was unsure the luge would be open due to the rain. They were worried that the metal luge track would be too slippery and we would not be able to break or perhaps even go off the track with enough speed. This made me a little nervous, thinking the luge goes really fast. Therefore, I went after a few people and ended up being behind a girl who was scared to go at any pace where you could feel the wind going by.  However, I had some room between us so I got a little speed around a few turns and it was pretty awesome. I rode a luge in Guilin, China!

2/16/2010 ? Beggar Boy

Something I forgot to write about, that left a striking impression on me, happened after I met up with my friends in the evening on the first day in Shanghai, and before we went to search for the restaurant. Although I had been to the ATM, I hadn’t had time to exchange some of the USD that I had brought with me from the states. So before dinner we walked back to the bank.

On the way to the bank we came to a cross walk where, across the street on the side walk was a little boy of about nine years old laying on the side walk, occasionally twitching. Already wondering if this boy is actually hurt, sick, or laying a trap to pick our pockets, my friends and I cross the street and ask if he is ok. Of course we are asking in English and who knows if it would have been helpful. This boy had good clothes on and was holding two bags of items so it truly appeared as if he was going somewhere and collapsed. Once we were closer I could also see that his eyes were open, but they were fixed on a certain area and did not move like he had control of them.

We did not know what to do. All too aware that helping this boy without knowing the real situation could be dangerous for us, we stood there debating if we should do anything at all. Then a group of elderly women crossed the street and went around the boy without a second glance. We pointed at him to the women, but they just shook their heads as they walked by and continued their conversation.

We took this as a cue that the boy was fine, and he was trying to get attention and moreover, money.  We continued toward the bank. About halfway down the block one of the Michael's turned and saw the boy getting up, picking up his things and moving on with a lively pace. 

I was furious. I don’t generally get angry with beggars. I might get annoyed but at least they are straightforward. This was my first encounter with someone so young preying on the caring, and kindness of others in a deceitful manner. This was a boy, a young boy who was crying wolf. It made me angry and sad. I couldn’t help but wonder, what happens to the young boy who does have a seizure on the street? Do old women just walk by? Do tourists pass and point saying, “Look at the boy in the street”?

This experience made me look at how we build society and develop trust. How we need trust to function and feel safe. I was sad that a boy so young was learning to destroy trust and breakdown the basic foundation of any community.          

2/17/2010 ? Yu Yuan Gardens

I have been to Portland Oregon’s Chinese garden and it was well done and beautiful. But nothing could prepare me for visiting the Yu Yuan Garden in Shanghai. Elena, Erin and I went to the old town with incredibly old classical Chinese architecture. The streets were very crowded. It was in this area that I really came to term with the meaning of China having over 1 billion citizens. We squeezed our way through the crowd passing souvenir shops and food stalls. We went into a place of food that looked good but it was some kind of cafeteria and we were at a complete loss of how to order, get food, and pay so we left and followed signs to a restaurant. However, to get to this restaurant we had a sea of people to cross. We formed a chain with each person holding onto the hood or backpack of the person in front of them. The person in the very front had to find space to squeeze through people and get into the current of people who were heading toward the restaurant. The rest of us followed. Letting go was not allowed, no matter who you may knock over. I almost bulldozed a very old lady, my comfort was that even had she lost her balance the crowd was so thick she would have bounced right back.

Erin, in the front, set her eyes on a man in a gray suit and just followed him all the way up into the restaurant. We were then put into a line of people waiting for tables and waited. Finally we were seated at a large table with a lazy-susan in the middle. Soon to join us was a family of four. Dim sum was being served for lunch and each of us ordered one or two dishes. The family ordered their own dishes. Except for eating at the same table everything was very separate. The food was delicious. The women sitting across from us amazed me at her skill with chopsticks as she effortlessly cut the dumplings and picked up bite size pieces to eat.

After the restaurant we resumed our chain and made our way over to a bridge that led to the Garden. With my free hand on my bag, and my other hand holding Erin’s hood, we squeezed through the crowd. My butt got a great work out from shuffling rapidly with the crowd. I never thought a group of people packed like sardines would be able to move at such a rapid pace. As we rounded corners the crowd would get even tighter (how that’s possible I do not know). It felt like moving through an hourglass. At first I would squeeze into the nonexistent space between people and then I would feel a shove as I popped out the other side. We made it across the bridge and bought our tickets for the garden.

In the garden we were in awe. Beautiful stone floors, walls with ornate wood work, still ponds, different shaped passages, and bamboo, flowers, plants and trees were all intricately placed together in a huge complex that balanced buildings, garden, and pathways. We meandered through taking in the wonderful tranquility inspired by our surroundings. At one point we could look over the garden and see the modern skyscrapers of the Pudong area peaking into the skyline. It the perfect contrast of old and new.

One of the buildings in the garden was a museum of Chinese paintings. We walked through, but I felt at a loss when I realized I was missing a vital part of the paintings. Each painting has a poem expressing the scene, insight, and beauty felt by the artist, which I was unable to read as it was in Chinese characters. The visual look of the poem was even a part of the paintings.

After the gardens we were tired and exhausted from being on guard and pushing through so many people. We decided to replenish ourselves with a little treat at a Hagendaz ice cream shop. It was amazing. Elena ordered some cake and hot chocolate. The hot chocolate was served in a pot on a flame to keep it warm with a spoon made entirely of chocolate so when you stirred it, the chocolate got thick and wonderful. Erin got two flavors of ice cream in a little cup. I also go two flavors, a chocolate orange, and a passion fruit, mascarpone flavor that was absolutely amazing. We rested and continued to the ship. On the way back we stopped at a couple souvenir stores where I got a few fans.

Tired and exhausted we went back to the ship and watched the first Lord of the Rings Extended version. Between discs I packed for tomorrows adventure of heading to southern China.

2/17/2010 - Go Cart Fiasco

To get to the go-cart bar we had to split up again because there can be only four passengers in a taxi (no exceptioins). Michael (the original) had the directions and the name of the bar. With the first taxi we hailed, Michael showed the name and address to the driver who indicated that he knew the location and where to go. The girls then got in the cab. I was a little apprehensive about leaving the directions, but I didn’t want to leave Erin and Elena alone. Then boys were then supposed to grab a taxi and go to the same place. It was in this plan that I learned a lesson.

My taxi dropped us off on a dirt road outside a residential community. On the other side of the road was a construction zone. We waited for the boys to arrive for about twenty minutes, in the freezing cold. The boys never showed up. During this time we saw a taxi drive into the community with another person from our ship who I knew was going to the same bar but we still were waiting for the boys. After a little bit we gave up on them and decided to see if we could find the bar. We walked in and found nothing just apartments. We were close, but we did not have the name of the bar to ask where it was.

Bing cold and tired we decided to grab the next cab and go back to the ship. The next taxi to pull in had two guys in it, one of whom had glasses exactly like Michael (the second). We ran after the taxi thinking that these were our guys, to see two Chinese men get out. I was really confused for a second because I had been positive it was Michael and Michael. Hopes dashed, we asked the taxi to take us to the ship by producing our green sheet – Green sheets have all contact information for the ship in case of emergencies and the ships address in the language of the country we are in. – The driver looked at the address shook his head, raised his shoulders, raised his hands, handed the paper back and drove away. Figuring this driver just couldn’t read or something we hailed the next cab. This guy looked longer, shook his head, raised his shoulders,  said “sorry” and drove away. It was at this point we remembered an announcement on the ship that a typo had occurred on the green sheets for the address of the MV Explorer. They had made a blue slip with the correction, but in the excitement of being in China none of us had grabbed it. The next taxi we got was very nice, he began to shake his head when we pulled out our cameras and showed a picture of the MV Explorer. Then my camera came out and showed a picture of the ship docked in Shanghai from the observation deck of the Chrysler-like building. We pointed and pointed. The guy said ok and we got in. In a couple of minutes he pulled over and motioned for the paper and pulled out his phone. I pointed at the number for the ships reception and he called it. They did not speak Chinese so he handed the phone to me. I asked where the ship was, and after a little bit of rephrasing my need to have a Chinese name for where the ship was, they told me the street name. I repeated it, the driver nodded confidently and off we went.

Extremely nervous that we were going anywhere but the ship I was tense the whole car ride until we turned a corner and I recognized the COSCO  building, which was one or two blocks from the ship and next to the bank. I pointed and said COSCO after the driver turned around from a dead end. The driver nodded and we were delivered to road leading to the ship all in one piece.

* The boys were delivered somewhere else and waited about twenty minutes, then walked around looking for us. They however, continued their night and found the bar to enjoy beers and go carts without us. The other semester at sea student who was in the taxi we saw also found the bar. Oh well, at least someone had fun and I got a little story.
The lesson: If you have to split up into multiple taxis, get the taxis at the same time and make sure the drivers take you to the same spot. Also have the correct address of your home base on your person at all times.        

2/17/2010 - Dinner in Shanghai

I got back to the ship and joined my little group of Michael (the original), Michael (the second), Erin, and Elena. We all got in a taxi and set out to find dinner at a restaurant that had been recommended by the lonely planet. This was the first Chinese taxi I had ever experienced. The traffic was organized but pushy. Also, honking was like another language between cars and bikers, with honks for being annoyed, warnings, greetings… you name it, they could honk it. The location of the restaurant required the use of the freeway and the lights of the freeway were beautiful. Blue lights lined the street and, on the side, tall skyscrapers were lit up like birthday cakes. We had the street name and address, as well as a map, but got dropped off by our two taxis a few blocks away (only four people in a taxi so we had to divide the group). We then began to walk.

After three or four blocks we went into a hotel and asked for new directions. Apparently we had to keep walking for four more blocks. At the third intersection we used a pedestrian bridge. Up and over a main street we went, and the lights of the city were amazing. We stopped a couple who were walking over the bridge and asked them to take a picture of us.

After the bridge we gave up on finding this restaurant and went into the first good-looking place we passed. Inside the restaurant was a fish tank with these long, flat eel-like fish. They were awesome. I ordered pearl white tea. They brought out a hot glass of milk bubble tea. It was delicious. We all had an assortment of dishes. It was very fun ordering because we had an English menu, but it didn’t have Chinese on it. Our waitress did not speak English, and we had a great time pointing and using our hand gestures to communicate.

During dinner we played a little trick on Michael (the original). He had brought his large XLR camera and we hid it under a sweatshirt at the table. When we got ready to leave it was funny (and slightly cruel) to see him looking for the camera. After a minute we gave him the camera (we aren’t that mean).   

Our next destination was the Bund. We got taxis back and went to walk the street along the river that has beautiful older buildings and architecture with lights bringing it all to life. There were many people on the Bund, some were sight seeing and others were selling little laser pens, or lantern balloons for the New Year celebration. You could look into the sky and see little balls of light floating up above the river. These come from little candles inside red paper balloons. It was really neat to see. As we walked I could also see and hear fireworks going off. Happy New Year!

At this point it was very cold outside so we stopped at a little shop where I bought a cozy hat and a few hair bobbles. After taking lots of pictures we decided to go to a go-cart bar to finish the night with a bang!  

2/17/2010 ? Maglev Train and Pudong Area in Shanghai

I awoke in the morning to get some breakfast. As I passed my window I was stunned and amazed to Shanghai’s TV tower (one of the tallest TV towers in the world) next to a building that looks similar to the Chrysler building in New York. Next to these two magnificent buildings was another tall, black building with an open square at the top, resembling a bottle opener. This black building is at the moment the second tallest building in the world as I later learned from a tour guide.  The skyline was incredible as our ship was dock on the Yangtze River near the Bund.  It took a few hours for the ship to go through immigrations so I only had an hour or so to explore with my friends before I had to be back at the pier for a faculty directed practicum (FDP) to the Maglev train in Shanghai.

In my small amount of time with my friends I got my first impression of China (now compared to Japan and the U.S.). Upon exiting the ship it was cold. Really cold. I was wearing a sweatshirt underneath a jacket (my basic Oregon winter wear). I even had gloves with me and we still had to be walking to be at a comfortable temperature. I noticed instantly that China was more unkempt than Japan. Trash was just lying around, and the smog in Shanghai was incredible. In all directions there was this purple/pink haze obscuring any scenery or sky beyond the city. However, I did see people on the street, and many of them would make eye contact and smile. This was a little different from Japan, where everybody was going somewhere and very little connection was made during the journey. – One thing to note is that it was the Chinese New Years, year of the Tiger (my year!). Many people had left the city to visit their families in the country for the holidays. 

I was able to find an ATM at a bank and get some local Yuan before heading back to the pier for my FDP.

My FDP was pretty cool and a good introduction to Shanghai. From the window of the bus, on the way to the Maglev Train, I could see new high rises next to older buildings that are literally falling apart, or some that have been recently demolished. After a little drive, and our guide’s introduction, we arrived at the train station.

The Maglev Train in Shanghai is the world’s fastest train. In my understanding, it was built as a prototype for a high-speed rail from Shanghai to Beijing as China continues to develop and grow. Unfortunately, the small amount of track, from the Shanghai station to the Shanghai Airport, cost around one billion dollars. Because of the expense, a different model of high-speed train will bridge the cities of Shanghai and Beijing. But the prototype train is still something to see.

What makes this train so neat (at least to me) is the fact that there are no wheels or rails used to propel or steer the train. The Maglev Train hovers by the use of magnets; it is also propelled by these magnets. With this new technology the Maglev train can reach extremely high speeds: up to 600 km/hr. However, during the mid-day the train only reaches a max speed of 431 km/hr. My ride on the train was great and solely to experience the smooth and quite ride of a train at extreme speeds. At the ends of the trains car was a speedometer, which showed the trains speed as it accelerated and decelerated. In 15 minutes I went form a stopped position, to traveling on the ground at 431 km/hr for a minute, then slowed to a stop once more at the Shanghai airport. Then I took the train back and experienced the smooth acceleration and looked out the window as farmland, run down shacks, and tall townhouses flew by.

Back on the bus our group went into the Pudong area of Shanghai – the business district. Here we entered the Chrysler like building and took an incredibly fast elevator to the 88th floor.  This floor was an observation deck. We could look out and see all of Shanghai (at least as much as the smog permitted). I could even see where the MV Explorer was docked. On my walk around I bought some hazelnut ice cream to savor as I viewed this growing and developing city. In the middle of the observation deck was a circular tube, with glass tilting in ward so one could look down. I looked through the glass and saw all the way down the center of the building until the lobby on the first floor.  The building was built as a circle and there was an open hallway on each floor looking out over the lobby. It was beautiful, and the people below were tiny.

As I left the building there were two things of notice. One thing of great notice was … Jackie Chan!!!! There he was looking all posh and amazing. He even agreed to take pictures with a few of us! I was blown away, and had no idea I would run into a famous guy in Shanghai. That was absolutely amazing!!*

The other is the world expo guy who was everywhere in Shanghai as it is going to occur in only a few months. Toys, posters, and cardboard cutouts of a short, blue Gumby with hair are all over because this little blue guy is the mascot of the world expo.

*Jackie Chan was a very well done and tall model of the real person

2/13/2010 ? Kobe

I awoke on the ship to the phone ringing. It was 8am and I was not at breakfast, or ready for breakfast, as Erin, Elena and I had agreed upon earlier (whoops). So the day was off to a late start. We finally had breakfast and went out to explore Kobe. Our goals for the day were to find a public bathhouse and free Internet. 

First we went to the information booth in the terminal. We asked for a bathhouse, which the attendant translated to mean a spa. Our directions were to go Sannomiya, Kobe’s downtown district. We were told that both wifi and a spa would be nearby and we could ask at the information booth in the train station for more concise directions.

At the train station we got directions to the Kobe Sauna. We decided to find the place and check out the prices. After walking through a very commercial district we found the Kobe Sauna which was a modern day spa and very expensive. This was no good. We wanted the traditional experience of a bathhouse or “onsen.” We went into the hotel across the street and asked them if they knew of a bathhouse in or near Kobe. With only a little struggle between languages, they looked up a place called Ninomiya Onsen. This was a bathhouse about six blocks from the train station in the opposite direction that we had already walked.

Happy to have a new direction, with more confidence that this is more along the lines of what we were looking for, we thanked the concierge and turned back to where we came from. On the way there we passed a Japanese bakery with very good smells filling the street. We agreed to stop on the way back and taste the delicious smells at the end of the day. We continued walking and found a hotel, which was on the map we had. Apparently the bathhouse was supposed to be right behind the hotel (at least that is how it was drawn by the concierge). So we walked up and down that block, not finding the bathhouse. Eventually I went into a coffee shop and tested communication abilities by asking for Internet (a relatively new word that has been incorporated into the Japanese language). The woman in the shop did not understand, or did not have Internet, and pointed at the hotel we had been circling, indicating that they could help.

We went into the hotel lobby and I pulled out my computer. They did have Internet, but I was so intent on finding Ninomiya Onsen that I did not update any blogs or photos (sorry all). After a long search I did not find any helpful directions or descriptions of the bathhouse. We were about to give up when Elena took the map and asked directions from another woman on the street. The woman pointed at this large building with an overhang that said 24 in large numbers. She said “24” and pointed. We took the hint, thanked her, and continued down the street to the building with the 24. 

Once at the building we became very excited because there was a picture of a woman getting a massage on the front. However, we were confused because the building itself just did not connect with our idea of a bathhouse. It was an eight story building on the edge of the downtown commercial district. On the sides of the building were water faucets, and we saw people filling containers with the water. Eventually we picked up our nerve to walk into the unknown and we went into the building.

Inside there was a stone platform with benches that met the carpet. A sign in English and Japanese said to take off your shoes before continuing. We took off our shoes and went to the desk. The lady spoke almost no English but we were able to communicate that we wanted a day pass to the bath. She showed us where to put our shoes (in little lockers to the left of the entrance), and how to purchase a day pass from the little vending machine near the front desk. As she was showing us how to buy the pass I saw the prices for the rest of the services and thought that the lowest price of a massage was the day price for the bathhouse. I thought I, and my friends, would need more money. My friends agreed, so we told the lady we would go find an ATM and be back. She was very accommodating, eventually realized what we were saying, and nodded. We then went back to the train station to use the ATM. Then it was lunchtime.

On our way back to the bathhouse, we stopped at a fast food place that was across the street from McDonalds. Instead of serving hamburgers and french-fries though, this restaurant served different types of Udon or rice bowls. I got a tempura Udon bowl and it was amazing. It was really fun to slurp my noodles and know that it was an accepted and appreciated sound.

We returned to the bathhouse wonderfully satisfied and ready to relax. Entering the lobby we took our shoes off like pros, put them in the lockers and bought the day pass for only 950 yen (approximately $10). We then went to the front desk and gave them the keys to our shoe lockers with the little pass from the vending machine. In return we received little bracelets with keys and numbers on them (apparently, we had not needed more money at all). Our directions were to take the elevator to the 7th floor. On the 7th floor we walked out into a little waiting room with a couch and some vending machines. To our right was a hallway with a hanging cloth over it like a loose door way. Behind the hallway was another hallway that was open. All three of us just stood there and turned in circles wondering where on earth we should go. Then a little old man stepped out of the elevator and saw how lost we were. He pointed at the curtained hallway and made the motion of ushering us in. We, very gratefully, took the advice and entered. At the end of the hallway was a women’s locker room with a few completely naked women walking around. There were lockers (which are very skinny), a massage chair, a bathroom, and a make-up table with stools, hairdryers (for a few yen), and some sterilized combs, should one want to do their hair before leaving.

The three of us found our lockers that corresponded to the numbers on our keys. We put our bags in and realized we had no towels. A trip back to the desk gave us each a hand towel that would not even cover my hair, let alone provide cover for ones modesty. Back in the locker room we all realized this was the moment we had to break (not stretch) our cultural and personal comfort zones. We had to get completely naked and walk around in our birthday suits to the bath area. The giggling began as we nervously undressed and played with the towels before doing as the Japanese, and slinging them over the shoulder. Then we stood there, and realized we did not know where the bath really was. The prospect of trying to communicate through a language barrier, while naked, was terrifying. Eventually we broke through our shyness and asked one of the women. She opened a sliding door to a stairwell. All of us were nervous where the stairway led, but we timidly stepped down. First we passed a sauna room, then past the baths, but we weren’t sure it was where we supposed to go, so I continued down. At the bottom was a curtain that opened into little cubes, which I instantly recognized as a capsule sleeping area. Up we went, back to the baths. Talk about a bonding experience.

Our motto for this trip was “when in Japan, do as the Japanese.” On the far wall of the room were stalls with showerheads. There were some women washing themselves in these little showers (the showers were only about two feet off the ground, but they had a hose and could be held by hand). We all stepped into our different booths and washed down before getting into the baths.

Afterwards, we got into the largest bath (it was almost a swimming pool) that was approximately three feet deep. The water was extremely hot and it felt wonderful. In the middle of the bath was a square frame around a large jetty of water that bubbled out. We weren’t sure what this was until we noticed a sign on the wall. It was a picture of lava flows getting very close to an underground water stream, and the water shooting up into the city of Kobe. Our little inner city bathhouse was built on top of a natural hot spring! It was so great. We were just able to relax after days of walking and taking in the surroundings of Japan.

After a while I began to observe my surroundings and the other women. In the left hand corner was a little pool of water below an open pipe. From the pipe, about seven feet in the air, water streamed out and into the little pool below. A few women went under and let the falling water act as a massage. In the center of the room was another large pool. This one was more shallow than the one I was in, but still a couple feet deep. On the side of this pool were some plastic dishes that a few women used to pick up the water and rinse themselves off. To the right was a small pool with purple water. I believe the water had extra minerals in it and was meant to be healthy for the skin. Connected to the pool of purple water was a wall. On the other side of the wall was a sink with two cups attached. The women would take a cup, rinse it hold it under a faucet and swish the water, then spit it out. Once their mouth was clean, they would drink the fresh, cold water and then rinse the cup again to put it back.

I soaked in the purple water, which really was purple, and tried the waterfall massage. The water from the pipe was interesting because it changed temperatures. At first it was a refreshing warm temperature that, after being in the hot pool, felt cool. Then the water began to get warmer until it was at least the temperature of the pool. It felt amazing. Then Erin and I tried to copy the women and use the cups. A few women were over there and recognized we didn’t know what we were doing, so they showed us, step by step, how to rinse the cups and swirl the water, spit, then drink. At first we were wary of drinking the water, but the women were able to say “good, healthy” as they pointed to the water and showed the motion of drinking it. It was cold and pure H20. Some of the best water I have ever tasted.

When my body was completely relaxed and probably slightly cooked (the pool water was very hot), Elena, Erin and I washed off in the showers again and went back to the locker room. Because we had the money now, Erin and I threw on our clothes and went to the lobby to ask for a massage while Elena enjoyed the massage chair in the locker room. At first we were told that they were booked up for massages for the next two hours, which would have been too late for us because we had to be back at the ship by 5pm. Erin and I went back up to the locker room to get Elena and put the rest of our stuff on when the lady who we talked to about massages said she could do two half-hour massages at 2:30pm (in twenty minutes). Smiling to each other, we agreed. For the next twenty minutes we just hung out on a couch and talked about Japan and our experiences. Then Erin and I went to our massages, once again in our birthday suits and feeling very insecure all over again.

We entered the massage room where two women (thank god!) were waiting. They asked us to sit on a couch that was covered in plastic, so I think being naked is the accepted norm there. We were offered water as we gave them our names. Then each of us was invited to a little cubicle around a massage table. The lady with me then handed me a blue pair of grany-panty underwear (made of a paper/cotton blend) to put on. I put on the undies and laid on the table facing the ceiling. The massage began and I was in heaven; completely relaxed, being pampered and taken care of after exploring Japan. What more could a girl ask for.

At the end of the massage Erin and I went back up to the locker room and began putting our clothes on. While we were in our massage Elena had told us she would write her postcards. As I was finding my shirt in the locker, Elena walked in said something to me. I couldn’t understand and thought she had just mumbled, so I looked at her with a confused face and said “huh?”  Somewhat annoyed I didn’t understand her Elena said something again but louder. It sounded like gibberish. So my response was “Are you speaking English?” I said it as a joke, forgetting English is her second language. She responded “yes!” Then she paused, thought for a second, and said, “No… no that was Bulgarian.” We all started to crack up. Because she had been writing her postcards in Bulgarian, it was the language that just slipped out.

We left the Onsen and began to make our way back to the ship. On the way we stopped at a little bakery and a Baskin Robbins for ice cream. Absolutely relaxed and filled with yummy treats we boarded the ship with two days to process Japan and prepare ourselves for China.

2/12/2010 ? Kyoto

An early rise, lead to an early breakfast and the beginning of a fabulous day in Kyoto. I went out to the Kobe port terminal to meet the SAS group going to Kyoto. When I boarded the bus I saw a girl from my global studies group and we were bus buddies for the trip.

Our first stop was Kinkaku-ji (the Golden  Pavilion). Here I got to see beautiful craftsmanship and scenery. I also saw a 600-year-old pine that has been pruned and shaped with bamboo supports.

Our next stop was Nijo Castle (built in 1603) where the Tokugawa Shogun lived. The castles interior rooms were screens of gold leaf with paintings of tigers, hawks, pines, and cherry blossoms depending on the use of the room. Inside the castle was also a nightingale floor. The floors would squeak in a lyrical fashion as people walked down the hall. This was a security feature so no one could sneak in and kill the Shogun or the Emperor.  

We took some time in Gion Corner, Kyotos downtown area. This is where the Geisha were housed and trained. Now there are many shops and it is a commercial center. The Gion area was neat because it was a mix of old Japan with the new modern work/consumer mentality. We needed to find a restroom, so we found a Starbucks. I was very proud of myself and remembered the word for toilet (toy re) and how to ask “where is the -----“ (------ wa doko desuka). I remembered, I asked, and the lady understood! That was a triumphant moment.

Our final stop was Kiyomizu Temple. This is a Buddhist temple in the hills behind Kyoto. The Temple was beautiful and very large. There were multiple buildings and shrines. There is a fountain below with three spigots of flowing water from three different mountain springs. You could pay money to drink the water. It is said that one of the springs is health, the middle one gives wealth, and the third offers wisdom. However, if you drink all three you are just greedy.

When I returned from Kyoto it was dinnertime. Erin and Elena were still on a trip to Gion Corner and they would return at about 10pm. I ran into my friend Michael (the second) and we decided to go out to dinner with a group to of people, then head back to the ship to get Erin and Elena. We went out to a place where you eat around the grill and a very talented cook prepares the meal right in front of you (I know this has a specific name, I just can’t think of it at the moment). Michael and I split a meal of Kobe beef. It was amazing and melted in your mouth. So I can now say that I ate Kobe Beef in Kobe.